Yellowstone

Part of our around the world trip this summer, eh winter, involved trekking through Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. This has been one of Corine & Jurriaan' s desired holiday destinations already for a long time, and with this opportunity traveling to the states we realised this wish. Luka was luckier, as he managed to go there on his first holiday!

We rented a small (on the US scale, i.e. pretty big) camper van for our trek.

We started in Jackson Hole and drove via Grand Teton National Park to Flagg Range campsite. On our way we saw our first bear crossing the road. We were not really prepared as our cameras was still packed deeply in our luggage. It turned out that this was the only bear we saw this holiday: so, unlike us, always have your camera ready!

From our first camp we drove north to the southern entrance of Yellowstone.

We started to explore the Upper, Lower and Midway Geyser basins from our first "base camp" at the Grand village campsite. We made many day trips with our mobile home, and Luka felt at home quickly.

Lower Geyser Basin In the Lower Geyser Basin we saw our first geysers. White Dome Geyser’s beautifully shaped cone is many centuries old, and is still growing with each eruption. For hundreds of years, thermal water has been building the cone that you see today – one of the largest in Yellowstone. We were lucky enough to see White Dome Geyser erupt the moment we arrived there...


Apart from geysers we saw beautiful blue-coloured hot springs such as Silex Spring.

At the fountain paint pots in the Lower Geyser Basin you can see hot mud bubbling up.


This vat of bubbling mud contains the perfect mix of ingredients to create mud pots: heat, gases, water, volcanic rock, minerals, acid, and even living organisms! Heat loving thermopiles consume some of the gases and help convert them into sulfuric acid. The acid breaks down rock to form clay; clay that mixes with water in mud pots.

Midway Geyser Basin
One of the more spectacular sights in the Midway Geyser basin was Excelsior Geyser.


In the 1880s Excelsior Geyser erupted in bursts 15-100 meters high. The thermal violence formed the jagged crater and apparently ruptured the geyser’s underground system, causing eruptions to cease after 1880. On September 14, 1985, Excelsior Geyser roared back to life with forty-seven hours of major eruptions. It is impossible to predict when this dormant but powerful geyser’s next eruption will occur. We were lucky it did not decide to erupt when we were there!

Though eruptions have been erratic the geyser’s outflow is nearly constant, pumping more than 15,000 litres of boiling water per minute over the carter rim into the Firehole River.

But the most impressive sight of the Midway Geyser basin was Grand Prismatic Spring.


Deep beneath us, magma from an active volcano heats water that rises to the surface through fissures in the rock. The result is a hot spring that pours almost 2,000 litres of hot water each minute into the Firehole River. Minerals dissolved in the hot water are deposited and gradually build the gracefully terraced shoulders of this feature.



The yellow, orange, and brown colors encircling the hot spring and lining the runoff channels are caused by thermophiles – heat-loving microorganisms. These microbes contain colorful pigments that allow them to make energy from sunlight and thrive in the harsh conditions of hot springs.


Upper Geyser Basin
Across the Firehole River is Riverside Geyser, one of he most predictable and consistent geysers in Yellowstone with eruptions taking place every 5.5 to 7.5 hours. Beginning an hour or two before an eruption, water pour over the cone’s edge, and splashing and bubbling become more visible. Then, water and steam arch over the river to heights of 225 meters. The eruption will last about 22 minutes.

Beehive Geyser is named for its 1.2-metre high cone, resembling a beehive. Though its cone is modest by comparison to others in the Upper Geyser Basin, Beehive is one of the most powerful and impressive geysers in Yellowstone. The cone acts as a nozzle, directing a column of steam and water to heights of up to 60 meters. Typically Beehive’s activity is not predictable, but when eruption cycles start, intervals between eruptions can range from 10 hours to 5 days. An average eruption lasts approximately 5 minutes. When we entered the visitors centre in Old Faithfull a ranger was kind enough to inform us that Beehive was about to erupt, and we were just in time to see the event...

Towards Lake village on our way north we started to see more wildlife. Elk and bison were sometimes very near the roads and villages. This elk we saw near Lake Village.

Further north in the Hayden valley we saw a spectacular herd of bison creating traffic jams when crossing the road, giving us plenty of time for photos!


Canyon
Near our campsite at Canyon Village, the Yellowstone River cuts a deep canyon into the ryolite rock. The canyon starts with the spectacular Upper and Lower Falls. The Lower Falls with the colourful surrounding rock make beautiful scenery.

Via a steep footpath you can climb down to the brink of the lower falls and see the water roar down into the canyon.


Mammoth Hot Springs
From our "base camp" at Canyon Village we explored Mammoth Hot Spring in the North. We first walked up to the main terrace, where Canary Spring resides.


Hot Spring waters of Canary Spring cascade down from the terrace forming colourfull terraces of travertine.


Shimmering at Pallete Spring is a living palette of colour. Billions of heat-loving microorganisms called thermophiles carpet the spring.


As you look at the spring’s patchwork of colors, you are looking at a world of thermophiles. Many species flourish here, each in a unique niche created by subtle differences in the spring. Temperatures vary – spots too hot or too cool for some are perfect for other thermophiles. Gases, most potent at the vent, are nutritious for some, but deadly for others. Swirling water or calm pools create different living conditions. The formations’ miniature hills and valleys capture light and cast shadows – habitats, for sun or shade loving thermophiles.

On our day trip there we could not resist to drive to the northern boundary of Yellowstone crossing the 45th parallel and the Wyoming to Montana state boundary.



Norris Geyser Basin
The last day trip before heading south back to the airport at Jackson Hole, was west to the Norris Geyser Basin consisting of the Back Basin and the Porcelain Basin.

In this raw, acidic land full of iron and arsenic, thermophiles and extremophiles (microorganisms that live in heat and other extremes) inhabit geysers and hot springs.

Many pools are opalescent or cloudy. Murky waters are caused by silica in the water. Colloidal Pool is a perfect example.


Our trek ended where it started, back at Jackson Hole. We had a great time!

Our son Luka

Four days late and just before his arrival would have been induced, our son decided to arrive on his own terms - he was born just past midnight after a speedy delivery and was put in Corine's arms. It was amazing to finally meet him and hold him in our arms. So tiny and so perfect. He started looking with his big blue eyes from day one. He is a very relaxed baby, quite happy to look around and explore his new surroundings. He sleeps well allowing his parents to get quite a bit of sleep. He loves his milk. And skin peeled all over his body as he was “overcooked” in Corine’s bump. Here are some photos of his first week.

Luka back in Corine's arms approx. 1 hour after birth

Luka in Jurriaan's arms

Sound asleep

Already with open eyes

After Corine's first shower and Luka ready to be the "bath demo baby"

Asleep after his first bath

Looking around

Jurriaan & Luka (day 2)

Luka content after his feed (day 7)

On our way home (day 8)

Opening of Perth International Arts Festival

Yesterday the Perth International Arts Festival opened in the Supreme Court Gardens in downtown Perth. The opening event started with Noongar elders welcoming audiences and artists from around the world. This ceremony included didgeridoo and dance performances.

The main event was an open air performance of La Fura Dels Baus, a Catalan theatre group. Jurriaan had seen them once over 20 years ago in Holland and was impressed. Since then they were most famous for a spectacular opening of the Olympic Games in Barcelona in 1992. So we had high expectations. Before the main performance started, safety announcements told us that we would have to stand and move during the performance. The performers walked right through he audience and took somebody right next to us, strapped him a 'fly suit', and hoisted him right above us.

Fly-man flying above us

In a later phase of the show, actors strapped to a giant treadmill descended from the sky. The treadmill was attached to a chariot. The climbing, walking and hanging actors in the treadmill push the chariot forward straight though he audience.

Treadmill moving through the audience

In the finale, performers in white suits were hoisted high above us. The movements with the backdrop of the evening sky, the light show and the fireworks made this a visual spectacle.

The finale with performers flying above us

Windsurfing on Swan River

After lots of windsurfing at Moonbeach in Egypt, we have windsurfed surprisingly little since we live in Perth. Many of the beaches have too much surf for us to get comfortably in with water with board and sail. But Pelican Point is on the the shore of the Swan river close to our house and is a good windsurfing spot. Corine called the windsurf rental of Pelican point and organised a windsurf session for Sunday afternoon. Due to her pregnancy she can not surf right now, but she can make pictures of Jurriaan from shore.

Jurriaan preparing for a beach start

That afternoon turned out to be very windy (15 kts). After 1.5 year without practice we were wondering how Jurriaan would go. But nothing was forgotten and got in poistion for a beach start and just went.

Jurriaan surfing on a windy and choppy Swan River

The river is shallow and most of the time you can still feel the riverbed when you happen to end up in the water in stead of on the board. There are also lots of weeds in the water that can be awkward. There are lots of surfers on the water, and there is a good atmosphere. We will be back! We just need to buy a board...

Jurriaan on his way back to Pelican Point

Christmas in WA

This year we choose to have our Christmas holiday closer to home in Pemberton, Myalup and Perth. Corine is too pregnant to travel far.

In Pemberton (still somewhat far at 4hrs drive) we stayed in a lovely house on the shore of Donnely lake. Our house was well-equiped with a kayak for the lake, a spa on the veranda and a BBQ.

Live is good

The idea was to catch trout in the lake with our rented fishing gear and put that on the BBQ. We tried a couple of times, but we were happy that we always had a back-up meal in case they would not bite. They must have bitten sometimes as we lost bait from our hook, but these trout were very skilled in eating bait without getting hooked! So we ate sausages and kangaroo instead, which fitted nicely with the good local Pinot Noir.

Jurriaan trying to catch trout on Donnely Lake

The area around the house had lots of bird life, nice walking tracks and in the evening lots of kangaroos.

Kangaroos at sunset

We visited some of our favourite local wineries in the area. One winery let us taste straight from the barrel how they Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz were developing. When these are released in bottle in a year or so we should be back. On our way back to our cottage we explored an easy offroad track to Lake Jasper, a natural lake filled by groundwater. The track continued to Black Point, one of only 2 places in West Australia where basalt rock comes to the surface. But the track became sandier and we were not prepared with offroad recovery gear, so we decided to head back. On the way back some of the easy track was now uphill. Uphill sand appears a lot softer than downhill, so we were forced to lower our tyre pressure to be able to drive back.

Corine driving Jansz over a river on the Lake Jasper track

The next day we were in for more serious offroad driving. Corine organised a tag-along tour in D'Entrecasteaux National park. A guide lead the way through the sand and we followed in our own car. The first serious dune and beach driving in Australia for us.

Pregnant Corine with our car Jansz on top of a white sand dune

We had a lot of fun, and the sand driving skills we picked up in Egypt came back quickly. For one dune ascent we needed to lower our tyre pressure a bit more than normal to make it. But our car, Jansz, performed very well.

Jansz on the beach of D'Entrecasteaux National Park

In Myalup, a beach town 1.5 hrs south of Perth, we spent the second part of our holiday. We stayed at a beach shack overlooking the Indian Ocean. A great location to watch the sunset. Christmas on the beach.

Pregnant Corine enjoying a mocktail on the veranda overlooking the ocean

It was also a good place for several water sports and national park exploration. Jurriaan recently bought a body board and practiced in the waves of Myalup beach. In Binningup, 10 km south, a small reef protects the beach from the surf, making it a good place to snorkel. We saw some nice angelfish.

Pregnant Corine in wetsuit after our snorkel

In Bunbury, a large town 40 km South, we had signed up for a dolphin snorkel tour. Unfortunately it was boxing day with many people out in their powerboats chasing the dolphins away. We saw a lot from a distance, but no snorkeling together this time.

Dolphins in front of our boat

The next morning we visited the Dolphin Discovery Centre again. We were lucky that a mother and calf visited the shore several times, swimming a metre or 2 away from us standing in the water!

Bunbury is also the second location (after Black point) where basalt come to the surface.

Pregnant Corine on the black basalt rock in Bunbury

The last days of our holiday including New Year's eve we spend at home in Perth, writing christmas cards and getting the babyroom ready. And we finally ate very nice rainbow trout from the fishmonger.